Traditional Protection.

Traditional Protection Basics Course

Student to Guide Ratio — 6:1

Schedule a date that suits you

Sat, Aug 11/18 - Sat, Aug 11/18 (1 days)

175 / Person
Lake Louise, AB

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“Traditional climbing” means placing removable “traditional protection” in the rock. Certain types of rock and rock features lend themselves to this type of climbing. Because of the skill and experience necessary to assess each placement, this is generally considered more advanced climbing.

Traditional Protection Basics is a 1 day course that teaches the fundamentals of placing traditional protection. It is designed for those who are confident lead climbing 5.6-7 sport rock and who want to progress to traditional rock climbs. It is also designed for scramblers who want to progress to alpine climbs. You will learn how to place remove traditional protection for following, leading, and achor building.


Develop the fundamentals of placing and assessing traditional protection in rock, assessing fixed protection, and building anchors with the same.

  • Comfortable identify and placing SAFEST removable protection.
  • Comfortable constructing an IDEAL anchor using removable protection.
  • Comfortable with Fall Factor and the loads associated with climbing falls.
  • Understand the maximum loads that removable protection is designed to withstand.
  • Understand fixed protection including fixed removable gear, pitons, and bolts.
  • Perform mock leads of traditional routes and receive feedback on placements.
  • Confident belaying a lead climber.
  • Confident leading single pitch 5.6-7 terrain.
  • Confident building simple anchors using bolts, cleaning anchors, and threading anchors for lower or rappel.
  • Confident coiling a rope.
  • Confident tying the following knots: Figure 8, Rewoven Figure 8, Figure 8 on a Bight, Overhand, Slippery Overhand.
  • Confident tying the following hitches: Clove, Prusik.

*Prerequisites are recommended for an optimum learning opportunity.
If you have questions about how your experience relates to the prerequisites, please contact us at

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