Mentoring

Multipitch Ice Climbing Systems (I3) Course

Student to Guide Ratio — 4:1

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Course



Learn to Lead Multipitch Waterfall Ice teaches the basics of multipitch climbing on waterfall ice. It is designed for those who are confident lead climbing WI3-4 waterfall ice and who want to progress to longer waterfalls. You will learn the multipitch system including belaying a second, rope management, transitions, route selection, and multiple rappel descents

Aim

Develop multipitch ice climbing skills for safe and efficient travel on multipitch ice climbing routes.

Objectives
  • Confident identifying environmental hazards when multipitch lead climbing.
  • Confident setting up the harness for lead climbing.
  • Confident placing and removing ice screws using the supported and A-frame stances.
  • Confident tool testing, tool swapping, and resting on lead.
  • Confident executing the NoFall Program for Ice ClimbingTM and preventing falls.
  • Confident building ice anchors and v-threads, cleaning anchors, and rappelling with a back-up.
  • Confident assessing waterfall ice grades.
  • Comfortable with the lead climbing system.
  • Comfortable with route selection and lead climbing strategy.
  • Comfortable tying off the belay.
  • Understand the multipitch lead climbing system.
  • Understand route selection and lead climbing strategy on a multipitch climb.
  • Perform multipitch lead climbing and rappelling on WI3 terrain.
  • Discuss route selection including where to place belays.
Prerequisites
  • Confident belaying a lead climber.
  • Confident top roping WI4 and leading single pitch WI3 terrain.
  • Confident walking in crampons on low angle terrain.
  • Confident climbing using A-frame technique.
  • Confident building simple anchors using ice screws.
  • Confident building v-thread anchors.
  • Confident coiling a rope.
  • Confident choosing the right clothing system for ice climbing.
  • Confident tying the following knots: Figure 8, Rewoven Figure 8, Figure 8 on a Bight, Overhand, Slippery Overhand.
  • Confident tying the following hitches: Clove, Prusik.

*Prerequisites are recommended for an optimum learning opportunity.
If you have questions about how your experience relates to the prerequisites, please contact us at info@peakstratagem.com.

Course List

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