learn to lead ice, A frame, nofall program, ice climbing, grassi falls, peakstratagem, peakeats

Learn to Lead Ice (I2) Course

Student to Guide Ratio — 6:1

Schedule a date that suits you (2 days)

375 / Person
Based on min 4 Participants


Learn to Lead Ice teaches the basics of leading waterfall ice. It is designed for those who are confident top roping WI3-4 waterfall ice and who want to progress to lead climbing. You will learn how to prepare for a lead climb, placement of ice screws for protection, the NoFall program, mock leading, and rappelling from a v-thread.

Expect to Learn

At PeakStratagem our mission is to teach you the skills to be competent, confident and independent in the backcountry. Our detailed curriculums break down complex skill sets into individual building blocks for progressive learning. After learning the building blocks, you will practice the skill sets with your course team while being coached by our guides.


Develop ice climbing lead skills for safe and efficient progression towards becoming a single pitch ice leader.

  • Confident identifying environmental hazards when lead climbing.
  • Confident using the A-frame technique, including the swinging and kicking positions.
  • Confident building ice and v-thread anchors.
  • Confident rappelling with a back-up.
  • Confident removing ice screws.
  • Comfortable setting up the harness for lead climbing.
  • Comfortable placing and removing ice screws using the supported and A-frame stances.
  • Comfortable tool testing, tool swapping, and resting on lead.
  • Comfortable executing the NoFall Program for Ice ClimbingTM and how to prevent falls.
  • Comfortable cleaning anchors, including making a lanyard.
  • Comfortable assessing waterfall ice grades.
  • Comfortable coiling a rope.
  • Comfortable choosing the right clothing for ice climbing.
  • Understand the lead climbing system.
  • Understand route selection and lead climbing strategy.
  • Understand tying off the belay.
  • Perform a mock lead and the NoFall Program for Ice ClimbingTM.
  • Confident belaying a top rope climber.
  • Confident walking in crampons on low angle terrain.
  • Comfortable climbing using A-frame technique.
  • Comfortable building simple anchors using ice screws.
  • Comfortable building v-thread anchors.
  • Comfortable removing ice screws.
  • Comfortable rappelling with a back-up.
  • Confident tying the following knots: Figure 8, Rewoven Figure 8, Figure 8 on a Bight, Overhand.
  • Confident tying the following hitches: Clove, Prusik.

*Prerequisites are recommended for an optimum learning opportunity.

If you have questions about how your experience relates to the prerequisites, please contact us at info@peakstratagem.com

Course List


Select Waterfalls of the Canadian Rockies
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